IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute

The global trade in second-hand clothing plays an important role in extending textile lifetimes and supporting circular economy objectives. Kenya is one of the largest and most established markets for second-hand clothing in Africa, providing affordable garments for consumers while generating substantial employment and income opportunities. At the same time, ongoing discussions under the Basel Convention may introduce new rules governing international trade in used textiles. This report analyses the potential implications for the Kenyan second-hand clothing market under two alternative policy directions: a Waste Control Scenario and a Building Circular Economy Scenario. The analysis focuses on textiles fit for reuse and excludes textiles intended for recycling or disposal. The Waste Control Scenario envisages expanded application of waste regulations, including Prior Informed Consent (PIC) procedures and stricter controls on textiles containing synthetic fibres. The Building Circular Economy Scenario instead recognises verified reusable textiles as second-life products and supports continued trade under strengthened governance, traceability and quality assurance systems.

The report shows that the Kenyan second-hand clothing market is highly organised, demand driven and already subject to standards and inspection requirements. Studies from East Africa indicate that less than 2% of imported bales constitute waste requiring final disposal. The sector is economically significant, with imports exceeding USD 230 million in 2024 and supporting livelihoods for up to two million people through import, wholesale, transport and retail activities. The analysis indicates that expanded waste controls could increase costs, delays and regulatory burdens, potentially reducing trade volumes, employment and access to affordable clothing. In contrast, the Building Circular Economy Scenario would largely preserve existing reuse markets while improving transparency and governance. The report concludes that clearer classification systems distinguishing reusable textiles from textile waste are essential to support circular economy objectives while safeguarding important economic and social benefits in Kenya.